Reviews

Jiro Dreams Of Sushi

1

A tasty documentary on 85-year-old sushi master Jiro Ono

Some nosh-docs are propagandist, others blow the cover off industry practices.

David Gelb’s portrait of 85-year-old sushi “shokunin” (artisan) Jiro Ono is pure gastro-porn.

With piscine perfectionism, a monk-ish work ethic and a loving attention to octopi, Ono produces minimalist miracles in a tiny Tokyo subway restaurant, subtle symphonies elegantly presented by Gelb with a classical score and a fetishist’s eye.

The skimpy narrative leaves side dishes about Ono’s relationship with his son and sushi’s impact on sealife undercooked, but your peepers will be too busy drooling over the glistening nigiri to complain.

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