Morgan Spurlock's high-fat high concept (30 days of McDonald's) was hardly tailored to a radical conclusion (he porks up and feels like shit). It's more of a howl against America's culture of indolence and excess; a plea for a little moderation and abstinence in a land of plenty.
McDonald's' grumbles about victimisation are shaky, because Spurlock's most bracing thrust isn't that you get fat if you only nosh at the Golden Arches. It's the way rosy-nosed Ronnie is such an insidious poster-boy for Americans' complacence over what they're shovelling into their stomachs. "Yeah - we won", he says. "We're the best, the biggest, the most powerful. So what say we shed a little of that weight instead of throwing it around?"
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